Black dandy culture took center stage, blending heritage and high fashion
As a clothing subculture, Lo-lita fashion can be categorized into three main substyles: 'Sweet' (pictured), 'Classic,' and 'Gothic.'
Those Japanese women distinguished by a dark tan, black eyeliner, white concealer used as lipstick and eye shadow, and with hair dyed in shades of orange to blonde, or a silver grey, are enthusiastic advocates of the Ganguro street fashion trend.
The "Boystyle" shares many aesthetics with Lo-lita and is seen as the male counterpart of the style. Accessories err towards the masculine: ties, jabots, pocket watches etc... Hair tends to be shorter to accentuate the boyish look.
Gothic Lo-lita is altogether darker, the style influenced by the Victorian cult of mourning, where the bereaved would don black clothing for weeks on end. Ink blue, deep maroon, and charcoal grey are favored hues.
Marie Antoinette, the queen who lost her head after the French Revolution, has also inspired Lo-lita fashion. Layered muslin dresses and tulle ruffle petticoats frequently hold court over Classic designs.
Tokyo's Omotesandō Avenue is Harajuku's gilded thoroughfare, a tree-lined retail destination featuring dozens of fashion flagship stores including Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Alexander McQueen. If it's big in Japan, it's right here, right now.
Despite the bizarre blend of attire being showcased on the street, Japanese fashion is still influenced by historic culture. The wearing of the traditional kimono is widely practiced, though many youngsters will add their own unique signature by mixing the kimono with contemporary accessories such as designer bags and footwear.
Numerous cute girly accessories—beads, bracelets, rings, and bow ties—in all the colors of the rainbow are worn to complete the novel decora picture.
Kogal is a Japanese street fashion culture that involves schoolgirls wearing an outfit based on the Japanese school uniform, but with very short skirts. Kogal is frowned upon by many critics, who see the style as fetishizing the school uniform and promoting conspicuous consumption. The kogal phenomenon has never represented a majority of teenage girls, and the trend peaked in the late 1990s.
While its popularity peaked in the mid-2000s, Decora, a Japanese street fashion that means "Decorate" or "Decorated," is still appreciated by those who love to pair predominantly pink tutu-like skirts with layered stockings, leg warmers, arm warmers, and knee socks.
Long-sleeved ruffles add Victorian elegance to the classic outfit. Cotton, chiffon, and rayon yarn are favored materials.
This look has evolved into an entire fashion subculture. It's heavily influenced by Victorian and Edwardian children's clothing and, less so, styles from the mid-18th century Rococo period.
Street fashion is still a prominent visual feature of Tokyo. But the labels tend to be international signatures rather than those of local fashion houses
The trend was initiated by rebellious youth who turned their backs on the traditional Japanese concept of beauty; pale skin, dark hair, and neutral makeup tones. Somewhat ironically, Ganguro eventually fizzled out when many young women chose to follow a bihaku ("beautifully white") craze that took off in the early 2000s.
The standout feature of Lo-lita fashion is the volume of the skirt. This is accentuated by a petticoat or crinoline. Components of the Classic look incorporate stand collars, high-waist ruffles, and long- or short-sleeved blouses.
That said, Harajuku's surviving independent fashion boutiques share an uneasy alliance with the better-known chain stores and branded luxury goods merchandisers.
Pedestrianized Takeshita Street is a neon-lit strip once celebrated for its funky street art and wacky fashion scene. Today you need to look carefully to find the vintage clothing shops displaying their wares, anything from hand-me-down petticoats and lace-trimmed blouses to brushed velvet top hats and tea party shoes.
Wander down Omotesandō Avenue and the contrast couldn't be greater. This wide tree-lined thoroughfare is one of the most exclusive streets in the world. Here, dozens of luxury fashion brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Tod's line the sidewalk, attracting serious high-end fashionistas eager to purchase the very latest designer apparel, whatever the cost.
What do these two shopping destinations have in common? They are both located in Tokyo's vibrant Harajuku neighborhood, known internationally as a center of Japanese youth culture and fashion.
Harajuku is the birthplace of some of the country's most iconic clothing styles. Since the 1980s this fast-moving fashion mecca has served as a hub for dressed-up kids and it's where Japan’s fashion subculture evolved, including the most recognized —Lo-lita.
Far removed from the sexualized Western interpretation of the name, Lo-lita, or kawaii, refers to the Japanese culture of cuteness. The fashion is highly influenced by Victorian and Edwardian children’s clothing, and it's still quite common to see young women adopting this childlike look on Tokyo's sidewalks. Another popular trend is Decora, known for its outrageously colorful and cartoonish attire and matching accessories.
But Harajuku has seen better days.
With each season styles change, and what was once cool is suddenly crass. Eclectic and original Japanese street fashion has declined, with the crossover to modern designer brands and mainstream fast fashion partly to blame. These days Omotesandō Avenue caters to an ever-stylish but more conservative and less experimental clientele. Meanwhile back on Takeshita Street the whimsical Kawaii Monster Café, a themed hangout where crazy meets cute, does its best to embody the spirit of old Harajuku.
Browse the gallery for a look back at the most influential days of Japanese street fashion.
The sad decline of Japan's street fashion subcultures
What's still trending on Tokyo's sidewalks?
FASHION Japanese street fashion
Pedestrianized Takeshita Street is a neon-lit strip once celebrated for its funky street art and wacky fashion scene. Today you need to look carefully to find the vintage clothing shops displaying their wares, anything from hand-me-down petticoats and lace-trimmed blouses to brushed velvet top hats and tea party shoes.
Wander down Omotesandō Avenue and the contrast couldn't be greater. This wide tree-lined thoroughfare is one of the most exclusive streets in the world. Here, dozens of luxury fashion brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Tod's line the sidewalk, attracting serious high-end fashionistas eager to purchase the very latest designer apparel, whatever the cost.
What do these two shopping destinations have in common? They are both located in Tokyo's vibrant Harajuku neighborhood, known internationally as a center of Japanese youth culture and fashion.
Harajuku is the birthplace of some of the country's most iconic clothing styles. Since the 1980s this fast-moving fashion mecca has served as a hub for dressed-up kids and it's where Japan’s fashion subculture evolved, including the most recognized —Lo-lita.
Far removed from the sexualized Western interpretation of the name, Lo-lita, or kawaii, refers to the Japanese culture of cuteness. The fashion is highly influenced by Victorian and Edwardian children’s clothing, and it's still quite common to see young women adopting this childlike look on Tokyo's sidewalks. Another popular trend is Decora, known for its outrageously colorful and cartoonish attire and matching accessories.
But Harajuku has seen better days.
With each season styles change, and what was once cool is suddenly crass. Eclectic and original Japanese street fashion has declined, with the crossover to modern designer brands and mainstream fast fashion partly to blame. These days Omotesandō Avenue caters to an ever-stylish but more conservative and less experimental clientele. Meanwhile back on Takeshita Street the whimsical Kawaii Monster Café, a themed hangout where crazy meets cute, does its best to embody the spirit of old Harajuku.
Browse the gallery for a look back at the most influential days of Japanese street fashion.