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Island paradise? -

Ilha Grande, located in Rio de Janeiro state, is an incredibly scenic island. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a protected nature reserve, it allures visitors seeking a tranquil tropical haven. However, it also holds a captivating interest for dark tourism enthusiasts. Accessible through a boat trip lasting over an hour from the mainland.

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Unspoiled beaches -

Ilha Grande, meaning "Big Island," has a ban on cars and boasts 100 beautiful beaches surrounded by untouched nature. However, access to outsiders was restricted for a significant portion of its recent past.

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Ilha Grande -

The island, covering an area of 193 km² (75 sq mi), was discovered in 1502 by Portuguese explorer Andre Gonçalves.

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Dark past -

Located about 150 km (193 mi) away from the state capital of Rio de Janeiro, Ilha Grande is surrounded by numerous small islands. Initially chosen to house infectious patients, it later became a place for dangerous criminals. Although the Cândido Mendes penal institute was shut down in 1994, its remnants continue to exist.

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Dark past -

The island's prison initially held political prisoners in the 1930s, but later transformed into a high-security facility for the country's most dangerous criminals. It gained infamy as a breeding ground for some of the most violent drug gangs in Brazil.

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Arriving from the mainland -

Today, when tourists arrive on the island, they may not realize the dark history it holds. Ferries and fishing schooners transport excited visitors from nearby beach towns along Rio de Janeiro's beautiful Costa Verde, literally "Green Coast."

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Small-town life -

Tourists arrive at Vila do Abraão after a rough boat journey. The town, home to under 2,000 residents, is the largest on the island.

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A refuge for pirates -

Prior to providing shelter for leprosy patients and criminals, Ilha Grande was a sanctuary for pirates and smugglers. They used the island as a hub for their activities both at sea and on the mainlands.

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Trails to the prison -

Ilha Grande is mainly sought after for its stunning beaches and natural wonders, with many visitors enjoying the popular activity of hiking its challenging trails.

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Dark tourism -

For the more curious, there is a 7 km (4.34 mi) trail route that leads to the former Cândido Mendes prison and the nearly deserted settlement of Dois Rios, where the prison guards once lived.

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Gang crime -

The striking difference between the building's history and its stunning surroundings has turned this route into a favorite among photographers and history enthusiasts, who appreciate the island's intriguing past.

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Traces of the past -

The journey to reach the remains of the prison is challenging, as it involves traversing a steep and sticky route through a tropical jungle. However, the effort is worthwhile for those curious about Brazil's version of Alcatraz.

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Chilling contrast -

The remains of the prison provide a glimpse into a contrasting past, unlike the current tourist-focused Ilha Grande, known for its charming guest houses.

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Violent gangs -

This prison gained notoriety for fostering gang violence. The notorious gang "Comando Vermelho" ("Red Command") was founded there in the late 1970s.

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Closure of the prison -

The prison closed in 1994 due to increasing costs, and eventually, people started to recognize the island's tourism potential.

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Fresh beginning -

Presently, a substantial portion of the island is under environmental protection orders, imposing development restrictions and enhancing the preserved allure of the location. No towering structures or chain hotels can be found in this picturesque haven!

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Taxi boats -

Visitors to the island get around on foot, by bicycle, or by boat since cars are prohibited. A fleet of 'taxi boats' conveniently shuttles visitors from one stunning beach to another.

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Colorful residents -

The island boasts stunning landscapes, with tall mountains adorned by untouched rainforest. It provides a habitat for endangered animals like maned sloths and brown howler monkeys, although colorful parrots are more commonly observed by visitors.

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Kind residents -

Ilha Grande is renowned for its tranquility, and currently, encountering a marmoset or howler monkey is far more probable than encountering a seasoned criminal.

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Beach dogs -

Visitors may also encounter some of the numerous dogs residing on the island. Stray dogs comfortably settle on the beaches and often seek friendship with tourists (especially if they have food).

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Lopes Mendes beach -

Lopes Mendes is widely regarded as one of Brazil's most breathtaking beaches, standing out in a nation that takes immense pride in its stunning coastal landscapes.

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Visiting the beaches -

From the central town, a challenging trek amidst lush tropical forest is required to access Lopes Mendes. The persistently hot climate can present difficulties along the way. To alleviate this, numerous travelers opt for hiking just one way and returning by boat.

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Surf destination -

The white sands and crashing waves make Lopes Mendes a popular destination for surfers. Don't expect to find beachfront cafés and shops here though—visitors have to bring their own supplies.

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Numerous trail options -

Ilha Grande is a haven for hikers, with approximately 150 km (93 mi) of trails that link the island's quaint villages and seaside hamlets. Be cautious of lizards and tropical insects on the ground.

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Booming tourism -

Ilha Grande's tourism industry has experienced significant growth in recent years. What started with a few small guest houses has expanded to include more than 100 lodging choices, including campsites and vibrant backpacker hostels.

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Marine life -

Known for its stunning turquoise sea, Ilha Grande attracts snorkelers and divers due to its rich marine life. The protected waters harbor various species, such as sea turtles, dolphins, and even penguins.

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Boat excursions -

The island offers numerous boat trips, from lively beach-hopping parties with caipirinhas to relaxing sunset dinner cruises, provided by local operators.

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Cooling down -

Visitors to Ilha Grande are never lacking chances to cool off, thanks to the famous crystal clear lagoons and crashing waterfalls in the area.

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Living museum -

Ilha Grande continues to bear traces of its history, as evidenced by the clearly marked path leading to the prison. This journey provides a captivating glimpse into the island's somber past, contrasting with its current reputation as a haven for enjoyable experiences under the sun.

Sources: (The Guardian) (BBC)

See also: Dark tourism: tragic and terrifying attractions you must see

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