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The origins in Polynesia -

The first references to surfing can be found in 12th-century cave paintings in Polynesia. These cave paintings illustrated people riding on waves. Via seafaring, Polynesians brought surfing to Hawaii.

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Popularity in Hawaii - When surfing arrived in Hawaii, it quickly gained popularity and spread to all the islands. Not only was it a sport, but it became an important part of the local religion.

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A sacred sport -

The boards were made of wood, and rituals were practiced during the surfboard shaping. During these ceremonies, people asked for protection and to secure their gods' goodwill.

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Captain Cook’s 'discovery' -

The first written heritage about surfing was found in James Cook’s diary from 1771. For Europeans, not only had the British captain discovered the new lands, but also surfing. Shortly after Cook’s arrival, colonization began, which resulted in the British imposing their customs and culture. Many natives died because of European diseases, and much of the traditions were lost.

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The arrival of missionaries -

Christian missionaries arrived as well, forcing Hawaiians to wear clothes and go to church. The native’s culture was considered immoral, including the practice of surfing. At the time, surfing lost its strong influence, but never totally vanished.

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A new interest awakens -

In the 1840s, writers and journalists arrived in Hawaii. Appalled by the treatment of the natives, they started denouncing it and began describing surfing to the world. One famous writer was Mark Twain, who in his novel 'The Adventures of Tom Sawyer,' described the experience of a beginner surfer.

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The reemergence of surfing  -

The reports about surfing caused great interest in the non-native population, and as Hawaii became part of the American territories, the natives were allowed to freely surf again. By the beginning of the 20th century, surfing had reemerged in the Hawaiian coasts, with natives and tourists alike participating.

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"The Duke" - The most famous surfer was Duke Kahanamoku, nicknamed "The Duke." The Hawaiian native was a talented swimmer who competed in the 1912 Olympic Games in Stockholm, winning the 100-meter freestyle contest. The swimming champion used a crawl technique that he copied from surfing.

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Surfing around the world -

After his Olympic success, The Duke started traveling around the world and introduced surfing in regions like the state of California and the country of Australia. This caused great impact on the public, and a worldwide interest surged.

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California surfers  - Around the world, images started spreading in magazines and newspapers of the first championships held in California. By the 1930s, the sport had reached a competitive level.

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The invention of the first wetsuit -

In the early '50s, the first wetsuit was invented by Jack O’Neill, which protected surfers from the cold Californian water.

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The evolution of the surfboard -

During this period, research began on new shapes of surfboards. Previously made of wood, the new versions were shorter and thinner, and made of materials like fiberglass and polyurethane foam. The round nose and laminated fins were invented by Joe Quigg, making more intricate maneuvers possible.

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A mainstream sport -

In the 1960s, thanks to the wetsuit and smaller boards, surfing became a popular pastime sport for white, middle-class Californians.

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The surfing '60s  -

This was the decade of the big surf boom, not only on the beaches, but also in music, with the Beach Boys releasing their first hit 'Surfin' U.S.A.' in 1963. The southern Californian beach culture was born.

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Surfing on the big screen -

Before the Beach Boys were playing on the radio, the big screen found a star in the film ‘Gidget’ (1959), about a California girl who surfed in Malibu.

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Real-life Gidget -

Gidget was a fictional character based on real-life surfer Kathy Kohner. She told her father, Frederick Kohner, that she wanted to write a book about her surfing experiences. Frederick Kohner ended up writing the popular book series ‘Gidget’ based on her life. The books were later adapted into several films and a television series starring Sally Field.

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The depiction of traveling surfers  - Films like the documentary 'The Endless Summer' (1966) by Bruce Brown further helped depict the surfing lifestyle, bringing it to the broader public. In his film, Brown followed two young surfers around the world in search of the perfect waves.

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Female surfers -

Even with the portrayal of a female surfer like Gidget, the predominant image of a surfer was of a white man. However, by the 1970s, female surfers like Joyce Hoffman, Linda Benson, and Rell Sunn made a name for themselves as professional surfers.

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The legacy of Rell Sunn -

Rell Sunn was a native Hawaiian surfer who carved out space for herself in the male-dominated sport. She began surfing at the age of four in Makaha, and when older she entered in men’s competitions, as there weren’t many for women. Her given middle name, Kapolioka’ehukai, hinted to her success, as it means "heart of the sea" in Hawaiian.

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Surfing grows bigger - As surfboards got faster and lighter, the 1970s saw an increase in professional surfing. Brands such as Quicksilver and Billabong, known today for their beach attire, were born.

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Further technical adjustments - During this decade, Australian Simon Anderson created the 3-fin-system on the surfboard and the ability to dismantle them. This was the final essential change, making the surfboard what we know it as today.

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The new surfing hotspots - Hawaii and California were no longer the only surfing hotspots. As the 1980s approached, and the development of beach cultures grew, places like Biarritz (France), Byron Bay (Australia), Nazaré (Portugal), and Morocco became sought-out locations for surfers.

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Surfing as a lifestyle -

With the development of surf culture, slang like "dude" and "rad" emerged, as well as the "shaka" hand sign, also known as the "hang loose."

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The surfer attire - Clothes like the Hawaiian printed shirt and board short baggies became popular attire, often worn with bleached hair.

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The soul of a surfer -

Surfing meant a healthy lifestyle, but also rebellious flair together with an adventurous spirit

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Surfers of today -

No longer just a subculture, surfing has today become an Olympic sport, and keeps gaining popularity with global events growing by the year. And the thrill of wave hunting continues to take people worldwide to discover 'new' surfing spots.

Sources: (Planet Surf Camps) (History) (Surfcanarias) (The Wave)

See also: The best surf movies of all time

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