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Franklin, Missouri
- Franklin in Missouri sits at the eastern terminus of the Santa Fe Trail. In the early 19th century, the city was little more than a collection of scattered stores, a few houses, and a church. However, the community played a major role in the westward expansion of the United States, not least because of freight operator and former soldier William Becknell. Often referred to as the "Father of the Santa Fe Trail," Becknell is credited with opening up a trading route between Franklin and Santa Fe, in New Mexico. Between 1821 and 1825, he made several trips along this wild and formidable route.
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Boone's Lick Road, Missouri
- In 1821, Becknell headed west out of Franklin using part of Boone's Lick Road (pictured). It takes its name from a salt spring or "lick" used by Nathan and Daniel Morgan Boone, sons of famed frontiersman Daniel Boone. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 3.0)
© Wikimedia/Creative Commons
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Arrow Rock, Missouri
- If you follow the route across Missouri first used by Becknell, you'll reach Arrow Rock. Notable attractions here include the J. Huston Tavern (pictured), also known as the Arrow Rock Tavern and The Old Tavern. Dating back to 1834, its reputedly the oldest continuously operating restaurant west of the Mississippi. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 3.0)
© Wikimedia/Creative Commons
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Independence, Missouri
- Further west, the Santa Fe Trail passes through Independence. The city became known as one of the historic "jumping off points" for the equally well-known Oregon and California Trails. Pictured is the landmark Jackson County Courthouse. (Photo: Flickr/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
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Independence, Missouri
- Independence is the hometown of US President Harry S. Truman. The Harry S. Truman National Historic Site preserves the longtime home of the 33rd president of the United States. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 2.5)
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Westport Landing, Missouri
- Independence is effectively a satellite city of Kansas City. In the early 19th century, West Port, today a historic neighborhood of Kansas City, was established on the Missouri River. Westport Landing (pictured) was built to serve as a landing point for river traffic, and stood on a section of the Santa Fe Trail.
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Daughters of the American Revolution, Kansas
- Pictured: a Santa Fe Trail marker point in Kansas erected by members of the Daughters of the American Revolution, an organization for women who are directly descended from a person involved in the United States' efforts towards independence. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 3.0)
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Big Blue River Crossing, Kansas
- The Big Blue River Crossing in Kansas was another water obstacle Becknell and his followers would have had to negotiate as the burgeoning Santa Fe Trail was being blazed. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC0 1.0)
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Kaw Mission, Kansas
- Wheeling further west, settlers' wagon trains eventually trundled into a area known today as Council Grove. Here, pioneers gathered at a grove of trees so that they could rest and wagons were repaired. Kaw Mission (pictured) is a historic mid-19th century church mission named for the Kaw, an indigenous people also known as Kansa, from which modern-day Kansas takes its name. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 3.0)
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Last Chance Store, Kansas
- Trailblazers reaching Council Grove would have also pulled up here, the fabled Last Chance Store (pictured here in 1958).
© Public Domain
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Post Office Oak, Kansas
- During their long trek, how did the Santa Fe Trail pioneers keep in touch with their kin folk? Ingeniously, travelers left their mail in this designated tree to be picked up by others following the trail. The mighty oak is pictured in 1912.
© Public Domain
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Post Office Oak, Kansas
- Over 170 years later, this is all that remains of the historic Post Office Oak in Council Grove, which like many other sites along the trail is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (Photo: Flickr/CC BY-NC 2.0)
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Fort Larned National Historic Site, Kansas
- After Council Grove, Becknell would have trundled over a site that in 1859 became the location of the Camp on Pawnee Park. Renamed later as Camp Alert, it was established to protect those using the Santa Fe Trail from the indigenous Kiowa and Comanche peoples, who wanted the land kept vacant. The entire complex is today known as the Fort Larned National Historic Site.
© Public Domain
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Fort Larned National Historic Site, Kansas
- Visitors can explore the barracks, storehouses, officers' row, and the blockhouse in an engaging and immersive experience that evokes the frontier spirit that the settlers would have embraced as they headed further west. (Photo: Flickr/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
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Santa Fe Trail Remains, Kansas
- "The Worst Piece of Road" reads the top of this waymarker. And it really would have proved tough going for the settlers as their wagons approached Dodge City, the wild frontier town of the Old West. Look carefully and you can make out the ruts in the ground caused by numerous wagon wheels rolling over the same track.
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Point of Rocks, Kansas
- Branches of the trail followed both sides of the Arkansas River upstream to Dodge City and Garden City. Later, the trail splits into two branches, one called the Mountain Route, the other the Cimarron Cutoff. On his second trading trip in 1822, Becknell's wagon train suffered considerable hardship, with both animals and people nearly dying of thirst in the parched Cimarron Desert. The Point of Rocks (pictured) is a landmark natural feature standing near the Cimarron National Grasslands.
© Public Domain
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Cimarron National Grassland, Kansas
- Once the territory of the Comanche, the Cimarron National Grassland was traversed by Becknell in 1822 using wagons, thus pioneering the alternate Cimarron Cutoff route.
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Cimarron River, Kansas
- By following the Cimarron Cutoff you literally cut southwest across the Cimarron Desert, which almost took out Becknell and his team. The route eventually meets the broad Cimarron River, which must have been a relief to all. (Photo: Flickr/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
© Flickr/Creative Commons
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Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site, Colorado
- By opting for the Mountain Route, the Santa Fe Trail takes you into Colorado and to places like Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site. For much of its 16-year history, the fort was the only major white American permanent settlement on the Santa Fe Trail between Missouri and the Mexican settlements. Abandoned in 1849, what you see today is a careful reconstruction of the original complex, which is open to the public.
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Raton Pass, Colorado
- Not for nothing is the Mountain Route so named. Becknell laid the path of the Santa Fe Trail through the Raton Pass in 1821. At 2,387 m (7,834 ft), the pass marks the highest point of the trail. (Photo: Flickr/CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
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Clifton House Site, New Mexico
- Along the Mountain Route after entering New Mexico is the site of Clifton House. Built in 1867, the two-story building was an important stage stop on the Santa Fe Trail. Besides serving as a hotel, it featured a trading post, blacksmith shop, and a post office. Clifton House was destroyed by fire in 1885.
© Public Domain
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Fort Union National Monument, New Mexico
- The two branches of the Santa Fe Trail are reunited at Fort Union National Monument, New Mexico. The site preserves the second of three forts constructed on the site beginning in 1851, as well as the ruins of the third. A visitor center with exhibits about the fort and a film about the Santa Fe Trail greets today's intrepid explorers. (Photo: Flickr/CC BY-NC 2.0)
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Fort Union National Monument, New Mexico
- Clearly visible in the ground near the fort are the ruts made by wagons as the pioneers headed deeper into New Mexico. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 2.5)
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Kiowa National Grassland, New Mexico
- One of the first features to become visible to Santa Fe traffic crossing into New Mexico from Oklahoma using the Cimarron Cutoff would have been the Rabbit Ear mountain range, seen here in the distance from the Kiowa National Grassland. Santa Fe itself, however, was still around 321 km (200 mi) away.
© Public Domain
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Tooth of Time, New Mexico
- The remarkable geological feature known as the Tooth of Time is located southwest of Cimarron and it too would have served as an unusual milestone for overland traders on the Santa Fe Trail. They used the 760 m (2,500 ft) Tooth as a marker, knowing that once they passed it they had only one week to go until they reached their destination.
© Public Domain
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Pecos National Historical Park, New Mexico
- As it nears its end, portions of the Santa Fe Trail pass through the Pecos National Historical Park—an arid landscape infused with historical elements from prehistoric archaeological ruins, to 19th-century ranches, to a battlefield of the American Civil War.
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Arriving in Santa Fe
- William Becknell first arrived in Santa Fe in mid-November 1821. His epic journey created a vital overland commercial highway that endured until 1880, when the railroad arrived in Santa Fe. Pictured is a 1844 engraving depicting a wagon train being greeted at Santa Fe. The trade opportunities afforded by the trail were dubbed by some as "Commerce of the Prairies."
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Santa Fe in the 1900s
- Founded in 1610, Santa Fe, which means holy faith, became the seat of power for the Spanish Empire north of the Rio Grande. Later, as the ending point of the Santa Fe Trail, the city thrived as a trading area for supplies needed while traveling. City and state flourished, with people inflating the population as they followed the trail to settle the West. However, the arrival of the locomotive considerably diminished the influence of the trail.
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Santa Fe today
- As the state capital of New Mexico, Santa Fe today is considered one of the world's great art cities, and is recognized by UNESCO's Creative Cities Network.
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De Vargas Street House
- Spend time browsing the city's numerous art galleries and museums. Then head over to the De Vargas Street House. This is one of the oldest buildings in the United States, said to date back to 1620. It was certainly standing when William Becknell arrived in town. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC0 1.0)
© Wikimedia/Creative Commons
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End of the trail
- Pause at the official end of the Santa Fe Trail at this marker on the Plaza in Santa Fe. Then reflect on the incredible feat of endurance and considerable bravery demonstrated by those who blazed a trail westwards 200 years ago. (Photo: Wikimedia/CC BY-SA 3.0) Sources: (Legends of America) (National Register of Historic Places) See also: Would you hike the Pacific Crest Trail?
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Rediscovering the Santa Fe Trail
Traveling along America's historic commercial highway
© Shutterstock
In 1821, an enterprising freight operator named William Becknell founded the Santa Fe Trail, an overland trade route from Missouri to New Mexico that subsequently played a major role in the westward expansion of the United States. Riding packhorses and pulling wagons, the intrepid pioneers that followed in Becknell's footsteps blazed their own trail and helped settle and reshape the Old West.
2021 sees the 200th anniversary of the opening of the Santa Fe Trail. Let's celebrate by retracing the route of this historic commercial highway.
Saddle up, click on the following gallery, and take a ride along the Santa Fe Trail.
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